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Taking the Train...


Whilst most tour operators offer excursions to local attractions, it can often be more gratifying to do it yourself. Welcome to the stage, the 'Boneshaker', as we called it. Officially though, it is the Circumvesuviana Railway.

Sorrento's only railway station is situated a fairly short walk from Tasso Square, simply continue straight across the square and along the street opposite until you reach the station on the right-hand side. The station ticket office is  on the first floor, but the shop \kiosk on the ground floor will also sell you a ticket if you are so inclined.  Expect to pay €2.20 for a one-way trip to Pompeii, or €3.60 all the way to Napoli. If you ask for a Return, they simply give you two of the same ticket.

The line is a single-track affair with trains travelling in opposite directions able to pass at stations, and runs to Napoli (Naples) Garibaldi station and then on to Napoli Port. If you are taking another train to somewhere like Rome as we did, alight at Garibaldi and then head upstairs to Napoli Centrale  which is part of the same complex. Sorrento to Naples takes aroud 65 minutes, with Pompei  being reached in about half an hour.

The trains themselves are EMU's (Electric Multiple Units) and for the most part have the appearance of having been bought second-hand from the Bronx - covered in graffiti and barely holding themselves together. The seating is basic, arranged in groups  of four hard plastic seats (two facing two) with  very little chance of avoiding knocking knees with the peron seated opposite if you are lucky enough to get a seat!

Once underway, the ride is somewhat 'interesting' as the train shakes, rattles and vibrates it's way toward vesuvius and beyond. Of course, overcrowding is a problem, and at peak times  the sardine can analogy is in no way an exaggeration. Where there are less passengers at off-peak times and movement along the aisles is possible, the trains  are trawled by hawkers selling fans and beggars holding cups  for coins in one hand and young children in the other, as well as buskers playing accordions.

At no time did we ever feel threatened or felt uneasy though, and there is the occasional  more modern EMU that run on the line which also have the added benefit of air conditioning.